Christmas in the Andes

I'll let my pictures tell the story this time...

Posing in front of the Health Center's Christmas tree, the only one in town!

Christmas dinner - noodle soup, guinea pig and potatoes.

Host mom and me standing outside our house.
I guess I've got a hand-on-the-hip thing going this holiday season.

Juan Carlos, my host brother, catching dinner

Dinner!
I survived the holiday in my site.
These ducks were not so lucky.

Family and neighbors toasting Christmas.

Maria, my host sister, loving her Little Mermaid light-up pen that my mother sent.

My windowsill full of holiday cards and Christmas decorations.

This is my kitchen window. This is where I get my calls.

And it certainly is a room with view.

Happy Holidays!

Wrapping up 2008

December 19, 2008

It’s 10:30am on Friday morning, and I’m sitting in bed drinking a cup of earthy Ancash brew. Iron and Wine in my headphones draining out the constantly blaring huaino playing in my house. If you’ve never heard huaino, it’s the music of this region of the Andes, and it’s something like nails on a chalkboard. I digress.

It’s been a very busy, very sunny week. For late December, I'm enjoying this “rainy season,” which apparently started in September. It rains every now and then, just enough for the landscape to turn greener, for the dust settle, and to allow for an occasional afternoon nap. But the past two weeks have nothing but sunshine... And we finished the World Map!

The early stages were intense – drawing grid lines and grid lines and grid lines with Rabbit over an entire weekend was far more enjoyable than it could have been. I definitely owe that guy a beer. Then came Day One of my World Map Project… where, as described in a previous post, I sat in the rain and waited and waited and waited for the kids to show. Just two weeks later, with over 20 participants between ages 11 and 17, we drew and painted the whole wide world! It’s not the most perfect World Map I’ve seen, but it’s ours – Tumpa’s – and I love it. The completion of the map falls on graduation week, an inevitable transition time that I’ve been semi-dreading. School’s out for the summer! I always loved that… but now I’m on the flip side, living in a small Andean village where all the descendants of the Incas are about to skip town for Lima or the coast. Oh… how times have changed for us all.

I’ve set up a summer camp schedule, which would be a lot of fun if anyone signed up. I’m offering a yoga and exercise club, a movie and popcorn night, an English club, a social theater group, and youth groups using games and art as informal learning tools. I’ve advertised at the school, I've used the town’s megaphone PA system, and of course word of mouth. And three kids have signed up. Count ‘em. Think: structure in an unstructured environment… oil and water, baby. I think I’ll probably end up standing in the middle of the Plaza, bag of candy in hand, yelling “If anyone’s out there, Come play with me!!!” I’m optimistic.

Things to look forward to: Christmas is just around the corner. This is bittersweet for me. This will be my first Christmas spent without one single family member. My parents and siblings will spend the holiday together in Montreal – one night at Kay’s and one night at my Mom’s. It’s very sweet - bittersweet - for me to know that everyone will be together while I’m away. My plans aren’t so bad though… I’ll spend Christmas 2008 with Angelica, Alberto, Maria and Juan Carlos – my Peruvian family - eating pachamanca, a coveted and delicious Peruvian meal that entails cooking spiced chicken, pork, beef, beans, camote and potatoes in a giant hole in the ground for hours. We’ll eat lots of chocolate this Christmas, as goes the tradition in Peru. Mine will be bittersweet.

Other things to look forward to: My dad’s visit on January 2nd… the perfect way to celebrate the New Year! I literally cannot believe that in two weeks from today, I will be in the presence of my dad. And just one month later, I’ll be lying on a beach with my mom celebrating our birthdays. It seems like light-years ago when I said goodbye to my parents at Newark airport in the wee-hours of the morning. Saying goodbye to friends and family (once, twice, maybe three times!) without knowing exactly the next time you’ll see each other is quite the sacrifice. So when I say I’m excited to see my parents, it’s a level of excitement that I’ve never experienced before. I’m so excited it almost hurts… like I can barely think about it… so at risk of shedding a tear on my precious MacBook, I’m changing the subject!

My little friend Gianella, 11, invited me to come to her lower school graduation this afternoon to eat cuy and dance huaino. Nothing like a little mid-afternoon guinea pig feast, complete with dancing with kids and parents. On Sunday the girls want make pancakes to celebrate their graduation. I’ll show them how to make paper snowflakes so we can decorate the house a-la-Rowayton. As a Peace Corps Volunteer, the holidays can be especially difficult and lonely. Tumpa is the farthest thing from New England, Connecticut. But this holiday season I’m lucky enough to be included, as a part of the family, in the Christmas traditions of my new Peruvian family. There’s a lot to be thankful for in this big wide world.

Sending Love.

Sophie

The beginning stages...

The completed World Map! Not the most beautiful color scheme, but it's mine and I love it.


The group of girls who finished the map.

Guinea Pig. It was good.

Gianella and me, at her lower school graduation, with her diploma.

World Map Project

Since the last time I wrote, lots has changed. First, I am so proud to announce to my Peruvian neighbors that I have a new President of the USA… Barack Obama. And they’re pretty excited about that fact as well. Todo es posible. Also, I’ve reconnected with the now 34 members of “Peru 11,” the volunteers I worked, sweat, cried, laughed, dreamed, and played with during training. We’ve lost 4 people since we touched down in Lima, Peru on June 6th… and we poured out a 40 for each one of those lovely people. So 6 months later, 3 months after moving to site, we reconnected to share stories, exchange ideas, and of course to work, sweat, cry, laugh, dream and play together. It was a very wonderful, very intense week, and I was glad to return to my little-piece-of-heaven mountain town in Ancash. Ancash is better, after all.

So post-reconnect, I’ve started my World Map Project. I spent all weekend painting the ocean and drawing the world’s most precise grid with Rabbit, my PCV neighbor. All week from 3-5pm I’ll be at the school with the kids drawing and painting the countries, and today was the first day. At 3:00pm exactly, I sat outside the school in the cold rain (the rainy season has begun…) waiting for the sign of just one small child. Nothing. 3:15pm. Nothing. 3:45pm. UGH… Nothing. But a few long minutes later, as if by miracle of God, out of the mist appeared 3 kids. One 11-year-old cutie pie, and two 17-year-old aspiring artistas. So up we went to the school library, the location of said World Map. (By the way, the library is completely disorganized and stocked with government-provided schoolbooks… not very exciting for the potential reader). We started out practicing drawing to scale by copying a bunny rabbit from a small square to a large square. Almost instantly, the 17 year olds stepped up to the wall and began to sketch Africa and South America. The 11 year old was more timid, though, and very hesitant to approach the daunting blue wall. Not much confianza in herself. But her practice sheets were good, and I really believed that this small child could do it! So I started to draw a small section of Australia, and gently asked her to try to finish the following small section. Next thing you know, this tiny all-star had drawn Australia, New Zealand and all of the surrounding islands…to perfection. The older kids, along with myself, were quite impressed. This is a sweet project.

The kids have two more weeks of school until their summer vacation starts. Rabbit and I are currently in the planning process of creating a summer camp for our kids. Think: basketball camp, yoga class, game hour, healthy lifestyle development workshops, movie nights (popcorn included), field trips, microscope nature club, and lots, lots more. Well maybe not too, too much more.

So yes, nearly 7 months later, I’m still having a great time in Peru.

Lots and lots of love,

Sophia